Rediscovering the Lost City One Step at a Time .
“So, first you pick out three leaves…” John says, pulling out three perfect coca leaves from the packet in Simon’s outstretched hand, “…then you arrange them like the Adidas symbol.”
John lays the leaves in a pile on his fingers and fans them out so they’re slightly overlapping, one end angling outwards. We all take turns grabbing a bundle from the bag and positioning them as our guide does.
Taking on the Inca Trail.Image by Neva Sinclair
Despite taking preventative tablets, it’s impossible to avoid the effects of altitude when your body is used to sea level. The thought niggled at me before I even left for Peru.Would I get sick? Would I struggle with the hike? Was I fit enough?
Everyone I spoke to had a conflicting opinion and it left me feeling overwhelmed. Soon after landing in Cusco, a city at 3,400 metres above sea level, I learned that exercise is much more difficult when the air is less oxygenated. But there’s no accurate way to predict a physical reaction; you just have to wait and see. A few minutes of walking through the city left my body begging for a break, while tackling a staircase always ended with me doubled-over, panting for breath.
Luckily, coca leaves are never far away. After all, this is Peru: one of the only countries in the world where its consumption and possession is legal. Airport staff offer them as you disembark the plane, hotels have baskets of them in the lobby, tea is always on the menu and mini-markets sell a variety of different coca sweets. But we were all yet to ‘chew’ them the Peruvian way. What better place to learn the traditions of the ancient Quechua than on the Inca?
Photo by Patrick O Neil
“Then, we give thanks to Pacha Mama,” John smiles, holding up the leaves and blowing on them twice; once in the direction of the sun and once towards the closest mountain. Next, he gathers the leaves up into one pile and rolls them from the bottom into a perfect little cylinder. We blow on the leaves as instructed and John watches us all struggle to copy his rolling demonstration with varying levels of success. My attempt results with snapped-off leaf segments in a mess at my feet, but I continue trying until I have a haphazard parcel in my hand.
“Now just put the leaves in the side of your mouth, against your cheek. We call it ‘chewing’ but you don’t actually chew on them. They just soften with saliva and you’ll get a bit of the flavour. Leave them in your mouth for about fifteen minutes and then spit them out.”
“So, this should get rid of my headache?” I ask, as I stuff the leaves in my cheek and we continue down the trail.
John nods, “Yes. Coca leaves are also good for appetite, thirst, fatigue and pain. In Inca times, they were used as a type of anaesthetic.”
My new friends and I carry on trekking, laughing and chatting as we inch closer to the ancient city. After hours of walking, it isn’t my feet that are complaining, but my cheeks. Exploring the world is fantastic, but it’s the friends you make along the journey that enrich your memories. When I think back to this day, I won’t just remember the sights and sounds. I’ll remember the jokes and banter, the way poor Alyssia had to crawl up the steep Incan stairs, almost on hands-and-knees, and the way we mocked typical tourist photos. I’ll remember the happiness.
FINDING A GUIDE AT MACHU PICCHU
From 2019, it is compulsory to have a guide to enter Machu Picchu*. Unless you are visiting the site as part of an organised tour from, for example, Cusco or Ollantaytambo, then you will need to hire your guide upon arrival at the site.
These men and women will be immediately obvious outside the entrance, but be sure to take your time in selecting one as whilst they should all hold a degree in tourism, knowledge and language skills can vary quite considerably.
The price per person for a guide depends on the number in the group, but as a general rule a 2.5 hour tour for 1-2 people will cost approx. S/. 140 (£32 / $42 / €36) in total. Should you have a larger group, expect the per person price to reduce. Tipping is often expected, but is absolutely not mandatory so do not feel that you have to.
| This Blog is just for my wordpress practise. If you want the content to be removed please do contact at manojkumareddy95@gmail.com |
Manoj Travel Blog 